ADOPTING A BURRO FROM THE BLM

There are several things to consider when adopting a burro from the Bureau of Land Management.   First are the stabling requirements.  The BLM requires a minimum 400 sq. ft. corral (20’ x 20’) with a shelter.  Pipe panels work well, as long as they stand at least 4 ½ feet high.

Barbed wire is not acceptable fencing for any equine.  For those adopting a wild horse, the requirements for fencing will be at least 5’ high, for burros, 4 1/2 feet high. Burros are less likely to jump, but more likely to try to push their way out, especially if tasty green grass is just on the other side!

A shelter is required for inclement weather.  It must have at least two sides to it, and good drainage.   When the rainy season arrives, it’s important your burro has a dry spot to get out of the elements and dry footing to get out of the mud.  Base rock makes a good foundation, followed by rubber mats to help eliminate the mud.    Hoof problems will likely result when a burro is forced to stand in wet mud 24 hours per day.  Further, a burro occasionally will lie down, making it difficult when surrounded by mud.   Some owners even go the extra step to supply a good bedding such as straw or shavings for their shelters.   Occasionally a burro straight from the range will be reluctant to stand under a shelter during a storm, but if you feed your burro inside the shelter daily, he will become familiar and safe within the shelter after a short time.  

Good quality grass hay, fresh water and a salt block should be provided for your burro.  Any other supplements for a burro would be at the recommendation of your local veterinarian.   A financial commitment must be realistic.  To keep a burro, one must have the land, fencing, shelter, and the resources to feed and care for the burro, and time to train the burro. 

Besides the stabling and food requirements, one should also consider the amount of time one should spend with their burro.  A burro arriving from the BLM is a wild animal.  They generally do not willingly walk up to a human and are not halter trained.   Their predator/pray instincts are quite intact.

There’s no substitute for working with your burro daily and soon they realize they don’t need to fear a human.   Initially their interactions with humans were not positive.   Humans rounded the burros up from their land which had no boundaries.  Suddenly they are placed in trailers, fenced corrals, chased into smaller chutes, vaccinated, wormed and freeze branded.  Quite traumatic for an animal who probably never  saw a human or a fence before.  

If one adopts a mature jennet (female), and she is at least 15 months of age and over, quite often they may be pregnant.  In the wild a jennet may start cycling and get bred as young as 14 months of age.  Quite often people do not realize their jennet is pregnant after they get her home.   The gestation for a jennet is about 12 months. 

If one adopts a jack (an intact male), it will need to be castrated.   Jacks do not make good pets!  Although their demeanor at times appears pretty laid back, their instinct to breed, climb through or over a fence, or fight off a rival male will seem unstoppable and is potentially dangerous.   Castrations should be performed by an experienced veterinarian familiar with castrating a donkey and ligating the large vascular cord (usually not performed on horses).   Donkeys tend to bleed during/after this procedure, so an experienced veterinarian will ligate to help lower the risk.   Here in California, castrating a donkey is usually done in the cooler winter months when the flies and risk of infection is significantly lower.  The cost of castrating a jack will vary, but on average it should run from $175. to $250.  Some veterinarians will come to your stable and perform the surgical procedure, others may require the jack be taken to the veterinarian’s facility.  Ideally the jack should be castrated between the ages of 6 to 12 months of age. 

Mature male burros coming from the BLM are not castrated before they are adopted out to the public, while mature horse stallions are.  This is due to the increased difficulty and risk involved in donkey castration. BLM is just not normally equipped to provide the special care needed. 

Most burros cost a minimum of $125. If you adopt a burro at one of the advertised adoption sites,  the first day usually starts out with competitive bidding.  Some animals adopt for a higher amount during the competitive process. You can also adopt a buro over the Internet, using BLM's quarterly Internet Adoptions. 

Once your burro has settled in at his new home, usually within a week you should start the daily training routine.   Remember, the burro will generally show fear of humans.  When cornered, he may kick or bite, or even bolt and run off.   Start out quiet and slow.  Sometimes just a daily routine of cleaning his corral, filling the water trough and feeding his hay will be enough activity to initially let him observe.   With time, one will eventually begin the process of grooming and teaching your burro to lead and tie.  Proceed with caution and keep safety in mind.  Fast movements will often startle a burro who is not accustomed to having a human in his space.  With time one will need to start picking up the hoof. 

Remember, baby steps at first!   Your burro will not have the tolerance to stand on three legs initially.  Simply picking up a leg and holding it for a few seconds is a start.  Picking up each leg should be done with caution.  Standing and positioning yourself (and your head) in a safe spot is recommended.  Quite often this part of the training is better left for a trainer, so don’t hesitate to call in a professional or send your burro out for the initial training.   

Some people prefer to start training their burros with food as a motivator.  Many burros will need to acquire a taste for apples and carrots.  One may need to slice up a carrot and apple and leave it with the burro for a day or two before he will eat it.  Soon, they will love these treats, and one can use them as part of the reward for training.   

Eventually when your burro is standing comfortably on three legs for 30 to 60 seconds at a time, and does not appear to be startled with the repetition of picking up each foot, it may be time to have your farrier out to trim the hooves.  Be aware, a farrier is not a trainer.  Do not expect your farrier to teach your burro to stand on three legs as each hoof is trimmed.   Burros usually require a farrier from two to four times per year, although some may require more visits per year, some less.   Seldom does a burro require shoes. 

Over the next few weeks and months your burro will learn from daily repetition.  Work slowly and quietly and your burro will gain confidence and trust.   The sooner your burro is taught to accept a human near him and is easy to catch, taught to stand tied to a hitching post, and will allow you to pick up his feet, the better off you are in the event your burro needs medical care from your veterinarian or routine hoof care from your farrier.   There are not many veterinarians or farriers who are willing to work with a wild burro.   Further, if you live in a fire prone area such as California, occasionally your immediate area may require evacuations of both humans and livestock.   If possible, teach your burro to load into a trailer and have an evacuation route planned in advance.   

A burro can live well into his thirties and more.  They can be extremely patient and affectionate animals and make great pets.  But like any herd animal, two burros are better than one.   Once you establish a bond with your burro, you can teach him to pull a cart, carry a pack saddle or ride him under saddle.   Donkeys are great on trails, whether you are leading him or riding him. They tend to walk slower than a horse, which can be perfect for keeping the same pace as a human.  They are a wonderful companion for day hikes, camping in the mountains, and parades.  

For more information on adopting a burro or upcoming adoption sites, Click Here

For additional reading regarding health concerns and donkey castration, the following book is great:

Donkeys: Miniature, Standard, and Mammoth.
A veterinary Guide for Owners and Breeders by Stephen R. Purdy, DVM.